Sunday, August 6, 2017

"Water Filters" part 2 - When, What, Why and How to use a filter system.

Hellenbrand's next generation Iron Curtain
In this second installment of "Water Filters," we will be looking at whole-house filtration systems for iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide removal along with iron bacteria and coliform bacteria. When to use a whole house filtration system, what to use, why use a particular type of filter system, and how to apply the right system for your water and family.

Frequently, water treatment professionals refer to water that is extremely high in iron, manganese, and H2S as "problem water" because it can be a challenge at times to find the proper solution to treat particular water problems and, quite frankly, it can take some experimenting with different methods to finally find the right water treatment method that works effectively and consistently.



In the first article "Water Filters 1" we discussed using cartridge-style pre-filters. As discussed, they are mainly for sediment removal although there is a myriad of cartridge filters that can be used for chlorine and lead removal, along with taste and odor filters.  The types of cartridge filters available (for specific water problems) and sizes are just mind-boggling. As discussed in this blog, a proper water analysis is the most important first step in determining the right water treatment solutions for your water.  In doing research for this blog I looked at quite a few "YouTube" videos because I was curious what some of the so-called "water experts" were
This is a nightmare!!
recommending for iron and odor filtration. What I would say from the videos I watched is "Don't watch any of those videos!"  They all pretty much recommended exactly what I said not to do in Water Filters 1.  Listen, if you have too much iron or ANY odor in your water putting a filter cartridge before or after the water softener is a very short-term fix and is NOT going to solve the problem, period!  Even if you put a bigger filter or a series of bigger filters before or after the water softener it won't fix the problem!  All you will end up doing is spending a lot of money replacing filters and having water that is "Ok" until the filters get plugged up again. And guess what. That 20" BB carbon filter you need for odor removal, could easily cost over $100.00 every time you change it, for a short-term fix, possibly every 1-3 months!  That is just not a practical solution to the problem or a cheap solution in the long run.

Bad, rusty, smelly, hard water problems take the proper water treatment approach to assure consistently great water for many years, and finding the right water treatment professional to fix your water problems can be like winning the lottery. It's been my experience that for every water treatment expert, there are ten, (what I like to refer to them as), hit and run water treatment companies. They literally just take your money and run and don't solve your water problems. It pays to do your research and find a good water treatment expert to keep you in great water and support you for years to come. If you want to do this yourself, and you are handy at plumbing then you've come to the right place!  We help you understand how this all works and find the right water treatment solutions for your water and family.

The easiest way to tell if you need a whole house water filtration system.
1.  You need to use water softener salt like Red Out salt, System Saver salt, iron fighter, etc. to help your water softener remove iron or manganese.
2.  You use any powered additives like Iron Out, Rust Out, Softener Mate, etc., to treat your water softener for iron/rust problems.
3.  You are constantly cleaning the toilets, showers, dishwasher, and sinks on a regular basis to remove rust stains or black stains.
4.  The women in the home need regular hair treatments to remove iron from their hair. Then again orange/red hair is in vogue these days!
5.  Your clothes come out of the wash with rust stains, discolored or spots. Especially whites.
6.  Your water is consistently discolored. Especially the hot water and bath water.
7.  Your water is constantly rusty, smelly, has a musty odor, or has a swampy smell to it.
8.  Your water is causing corrosion on sinks and appliances. Rusting out or even eating metal away.

If you answered yes to any of these questions you need a whole house water filtration system.  In our area, about 80% of the well water we treat needs an iron/odor filtration system, before a water softener, to assure all the iron and manganese are removed along with the trace amount of hydrogen sulfide.

I can't stress enough that a proper water analysis is key in finding the right water treatment solution to treat your water.  Especially when it comes to problem water solutions.  PH levels play an especially important role in these problem water solutions as acidic water makes it much more difficult to oxidize, precipitate and remove iron, manganese, and H2S.  If the water is too acidic (below 6.5 PH) an acid neutralizer, such as calcite and corosex media, may need to be added to elevate the PH to levels above 7 (Neutral). There is a myriad of filter media options to choose from to treat every water problem so I will just stick with the most prevalent filtration media for problem water treatment. Every water treatment dealer has their preference and knows what works best in their area by trial and error. In reality, it's really practice, practice, practice by water treatment dealers to determine the proper water treatment solution.

Another very important aspect to look at when treating any well water is the well itself.
1. Is the well cap intact and sealed properly?
2. Is the well tank working properly? Is the pressure switch working properly, does the pressure gauge work, is the well tank holding pressure, is the well tank waterlogged, and does the well tank have the proper precharge pressure for the switch.
3. Is there enough water pressure and gallons per minute of water to operate a water treatment system efficiently. The minimum water pressure should be 30psi. The minimum "gallons per minute" flow rate from the well or cistern should be 10gpm.

The most important thing in beginning to solve your water problem is to take notes on what you see going on with the water inside the home and outside. If you hire a water treatment professional discuss this with them fully. Take them around the house, and show them the problem areas. Toilets, showers, dishwashers, etc. When helping a homeowner solve their water problems listening to them as they describe the problems with their water is always the first step and is vital in any treatment solution. Homeowners live with their water every day and may have valuable insight into something that is not quite apparent at the time the water is tested.  Water can be really weird at times and the people living with it every day have a lot of insight into helping solve their water problems and providing them great water!

Whole House Filtration Options.
  Manganese Greensand Filter
1.  Manganese Greensand filters - Uses either potassium permanganate (Oxidizing chemical) or chlorine to oxidize and regenerate the filter media. Typically regenerates every other day or by gallons used. MTM media is also an option. It is lighter, easier to backwash and has higher service flow rates.

Pros: Reasonably priced, fairly inexpensive to operate, does a good job at removing lower levels of iron, manganese, and H2S.

Cons: Requires a lot of maintenance and regular service. The media is very dense and heavy. Consequently, it has very low service flow rates (3-7 GPM) necessary for today's modern households and requires higher water pressures (30+ lbs) and water volumes to effectively backwash and regenerate the media.


2.  Chlorine or Hydrogen Peroxide Injection - Injection/retention/oxidation and filtration to oxidize iron, manganese, hydrogen sulfide, filter tank to remove oxidized particulates and residual chlorine or peroxide. This type of system is also frequently used when bacteria is a continual problem from the water source.  With difficult bacteria problems often this is the only option for treatment. Contact time (center blue tank) is vital in this application for the chlorine/hydrogen peroxide to have time to oxidize or sanitize whatever the water is being treated for. Filtration to remove oxidized matter comes next then carbon filtration to remove residual chlorine or peroxide before household use. With extremely high levels of Hydrogen Sulfide, Bacteria and Iron Bacteria, this is often the only option to treat the water.

Pros: A very effective method of oxidizing iron, and manganese, removing hydrogen sulfide, and sanitizing the water. When iron bacteria or coliform bacteria are a continuous problem in well water supplies this is one of the best methods to assure bacteria-free water.

Cons:  As you can see from the diagram this can be a rather complex system and can require weekly maintenance having to add chlorine or peroxide along with regular maintenance on the entire system to assure proper operation. Chlorine by-products such as Trihalomethanes are known to be carcinogenic.


3. Ozonation - Ozone treatment is also an option for oxidizing iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide, and treating iron bacteria and nuisance bacteria from your well.

Pros: Ozone adds nothing to the water, other than pure oxygen, and is an effective oxidizer for iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide removal. It's also very effective at killing bacteria such as coliform, iron bacteria, and sulfate-reducing bacteria. It's also very effective at removing MicrobesGiardia,
Cryptosporidium, Fungi, molds, parasites, and common odors in water.

Hellenbrand Residential Ozone System
Cons: Ozone has a very short lifespan, seconds. So it must be constantly generated. Ozone systems can be very maintenance intensive and require an experienced professional to maintain and apply properly. Ozone can be very corrosive to copper and galvanized plumbing as well. The indoor environment the ozone is created has to be very dry so most residential basements are not good environments for this. Frequently a separate air dryer is necessary to properly dry the air out in basement applications so the ozone generator works properly.


4. Aeration - Aeration is a filtration method that uses air either drawn into or injected into a filter tank to oxidize iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide.  The types of filter media used for aeration systems are endless. Birm, Filter AG, Multi-media, Zeolite, and Centaur carbon are just some of the different types of media used in this type of filtration system.

Early Aeration systems used an inline "Venturi" nozzle which drew air into the incoming well line, when the submersible well pump was running, before the well tank. As shown in this diagram. The iron and manganese are oxidized in the bladder style well tank, and frequently an additional aeration tank, then filtered out with a backwashing filter.  The problems with this venturi-style system are several.
1. The venturi nozzle creates so much back pressure on submersible pumps they run continuously trying to build pressure at the well tank. Eventually, the submersible pump will overheat and fail.
2. The venturi nozzle greatly restricts the water pressure and water volume causing insufficient water volumes to properly backwash the filter media tanks. Causing the filter media to foul out prematurely. Hence these systems typically need the filtration media replaced every 3-7 years. Depending on the water chemistry and water usage.
3. A common problem with this venturi style also is oxidized iron and manganese plugging up the water line from the venturi nozzle to the bladder/well tank, aeration tank, and/or filtration tank causing severe pressure loss.  This requires annual or semi-annual maintenance to clean out the lines and flush the well tank.  Consequently, the lack of household water pressure and water volumes necessary to efficiently operate a home is a problem. So this style system is rarely used now.
Venturi Nozzle


 2 Tank Aeration Filtration system
This "Two Tank" style Aeration system has been popular for a very long time and was the next generation after the Venturi style. The first tank or "Contact Tank" has air pumped into it with a small air compressor. This creates "Microbubbles" of oxygen so iron and manganese are oxidized, become a particle, fall out of the water and then travel to the filtration tank for removal.  Depending on the manufacturer. The system can be programmed to run the air compressor at certain intervals. Example: Every 10 min for 30 seconds. Depending on water chemistry and household water usage. This system is normally set to backwash every night. Small amounts of hydrogen sulfide can also be removed with this method. Generally, 1ppm of H2S or less can be successfully removed depending on the levels of iron and manganese present in the water supply. Higher levels of H2S require chlorination or hydrogen peroxide systems as described above. One of the issues with this style is mud balls developed in the bottom of the contact tank and the valve heads would become plugged with iron. This style of filtration system typically needs to be rebuilt and the filtration media replaced about every three years, depending on the water chemistry and water usage. These systems use a "Multi-Media" filtration pack as the filter media. This would need to be replaced at those same intervals and have the contact tank flushed. Causing this system to be rather a service-intensive and expensive proposition to keep rebuilding.
Single Tank Aeration Filter System

The newest generation, and in my opinion the best aeration filtration system, is now a single tank system. It is very simple and works extremely well. Air is drawn into the tank during regeneration with a small venturi nozzle that is incorporated into the valve body, this can be cleaned very easily when necessary. This is the same type of process used on water softeners to draw brine. With the electronics available now, especially on the "Clack" valves, each system can be custom programmed for every household. Allowing for greater flexibility in setting up the system for water chemistry, draw time, and backwash lengths. The Clack valve also runs according to gallons or a day override to assure you have filtered, conditioned water even during peak periods of water usage. This diagram shows most of the oxidation of iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide occurs in the upper third of the tank. But the whole tank is flooded with oxygen so the oxidation process happens all through the filter media bed. This system typically regenerates every 2-3 days or by gallons used. Whichever comes first.

When using any filtration system bed depth and contact time is of the utmost importance. Oxidation and filtration of iron, manganese and H2S can take some time so it is generally better to have a taller tank, such as a 10x54 or 13x54 for residential use to allow enough time for this whole process to work effectively. The higher the iron and manganese levels are the larger the size tank is required to work effectively and have a longer lifespan. Larger filter tanks like a
Duplexed backwashing filtration system
13x54, along with duplexed or triplexed filter tanks should be considered with iron levels above 5ppm and manganese levels above 2ppm. Especially with households that use high volumes of water. Water pressures of 30psi-70psi are optimal for proper backwashing and cleaning of the filter media, no matter what type is used. Filter systems require at least 5gpm to backwash properly. Larger systems may require 7-10gpm, depending on the filter media used. The good news is these systems can filter down to 5 microns meaning they are very efficient at the filtration of fine particulates.

Pros:  The Aeration process is the simplest method and, with a single tank aeration system, requires very little maintenance. Many different options for filter media are available to accommodate your particular water problems.

Cons:  Aeration systems are not for use with high levels of hydrogen sulfide or iron bacteria. High levels of dissolved oxygen, with an aeration system, can cause copper corrosion.

To summarize: Every water treatment problem has its own unique solutions. To find your solution start with a complete water analysis to determine what's in the water first and then you can begin to address the proper solution for your home.


Good Days and Good Water!


R.J. DeChene,
The Water Softener Blog 2017


Below are links related to topics discussed in this article.

Water Testing: Water Check

Find a Certified Water Treatment Dealer in your area

Selecting a Home Water Treatment System

WellOwner.Org

How the Oxidation and Filtration process works

Water Filter Media Guide

Water Treatment Manufacturers:
Hellenbrand Water Treatment
Water Right Inc.
Nelsen Corporation


© Copyright The Water Softener Blog 2017. All rights reserved





Sunday, August 14, 2016

How Water Softeners Work.

Water softener systems are basically an appliance that treats incoming water to the home to remove hardness minerals (Calcium, Magnesium) present in water and provide softened water for the home to protect plumbing fixtures and water-using appliances to prevent hard water scale buildup and iron staining. Making the home run more efficiently.

Water softeners/conditioners are not the solutions to every water treatment problem. There is a myriad of water chemistry problems such as high iron, manganese, hydrogen sulfide, and low PH along with many other water problems that require different types of water treatment equipment to correctly treat the water.  The first step in determining the proper water treatment solution is a complete water analysis to determine the hardness, iron and other water chemistry issues that may need more treatment than a water softener.

Water softeners have six main components:
1. Control Valve
2. Distributor Tube
3. Water Softener Tank
4. Water Softening Resin
5. Brine / Salt Tank
6. Float Assembly

Water softener regeneration cycles:
1. Backwash
2. Brine draw
3. Slow rinse
4. Fast rinse
5. Brine refill
6. Service

Water softeners have to run/regenerate at some point to rinse off the hardness minerals the resin has collected and restore the sodium charge on the resin beads.  The regeneration cycles shown above are the most commonly used but may vary in the sequence depending on the particular water softener and manufacturer.  When not regenerating a water softener is normally in service mode.

Ion Exchange Process:  Sodium Chloride or Potassium Chloride (Water softener salt) is used to regenerate the water softener resin beads during the brine draw cycle. Sodium or Potassium displaces the hardness minerals the resin has collected during the service cycle and the hardness minerals are flushed to the drain.

Water softener resin ion exchange process
Resin Regeneration Process

Water softener resin color variations
Water Softener Resin Comes In Many Color Variations
Polystyrene water softener resin
Polystyrene Water Softener Resin

Every water softener has a given amount of "capacity".  The amount of resin in the softener tank and size of the softener tank determine the total capacity and how many gallons of water can run through the water softener before it has to regenerate.
For example, a 9x48 water softener tank will have about 30,000 grains of capacity (1 cu ft of resin) and a 10x54 tank is about 45,000 grains of capacity (1.5 cu ft of resin).  Single tank water softeners, such as the Fleck 7000 above (Blue Tank), are factory set to regenerate at 2 o'clock in the morning (This is referred to as delayed regeneration) and takes anywhere from 60 minutes to over 2 hours for a complete regeneration cycle depending on the capacity and size of the water softener. A certain amount of resin is always left out of the total equation to have a little extra capacity on days with heavy water usage. This is referred to as the "Reserve". Typically one full day of water use is left as the reserve.


Older water softening systems operated on a "Time Clock" basis
fleck 5600 time clock valve
Fleck 5600 Valve with a 12 Day Time Clock
and ran a certain number of days per week based on how many pins were set for days to regenerate. Time clock systems have 6 to 14 pins that determine how often it runs/regenerates.  These time clock model water softeners were very inefficient and frequently ran out of softened water when the capacity was exceeded. Which was usually on weekends when we all use 2-3 times the water than during the week. When a water softener runs out of capacity the resin is exhausted of softened water causing hard water to service. With a time clock water softener, there needs to be at least one day's water usage left in reserve to prepare for those heavy usage days. With more modern water softeners reserve capacity is not as important because they are constantly metering the water usage and adjusting the regeneration cycles to accommodate the changing water needs (depending on the manufacturer and model).


Modern water softening systems regenerate on gallons used and are much more efficient as they only regenerate when needed and tend to have better consistency of softened water.
Cabinet style water softenerThere are basically three types of water softeners "Cabinet Models", "Single Tanks" and "Twin Tanks".  A single tank water softener refers to any water softener with one softener tank and a salt tank.  This may be one as shown at the top of this article (Fleck 7000) or what is referred to as a cabinet model (Shown here on the right) where the water softener system is built into the salt storage tank. Cabinet model water softeners tend to be the least expensive, and are installed by many DIY'ers but also tend to only last 3-7 years so you get what you pay for with this style softener.  They also tend to be very inefficient at removing iron from well water.


An even more efficient option for your water softening system is a "Twin Tank" water softener as 
Twin tank on demand water softener
Twin Tank Water Softener
shown here. This style water treatment system actually has two water softener tanks.  One tank is in service (supplying soft water) while the second tank is in standby.  This type of water softener is a true on-demand water treatment system. When one tank becomes almost exhausted of softened water it regenerates immediately and switches to the standby tank that goes into service. Twin Tank softeners normally regenerate during the day when water is being used.  Twin Tank systems use a portion of softened water from the second tank to clean the tank that is being regenerated so they tend to be very efficient at salt usage, iron removal, supply the best quality water, the most consistent quality of softened water and have fewer service issues because they are regenerating with clean/soft water.

For the best, durability, serviceability, reliability, and longevity and quality of water I recommend a separate water softener and brine tank system.  A separate water softener and salt storage tank can last well over 20 years.  If you decide to install your own water treatment system it pays to consult with a local plumbing supply house or local water treatment company that sells "cash and carry" water treatment systems, (NOT the box stores).  They can be a valuable resource to help you choose the proper system, setting it up, future technical/service support and test your water to find the best water treatment system to treat your water.  Having a water analysis done by an independent water testing lab is also a good idea.  An independent lab can test for bacteria, arsenic, lead and other concerns that a plumber or even a water treatment company would not normally do.  A thorough water analysis from a licensed lab can be a useful reference for the future also.  If you seek help from a professional water treatment company be sure to check them out thoroughly online.  Angie's List, Google Reviews, Yellow Pages, Yelp and various other sites can be a valuable resource to check their work, reviews and customer satisfaction.  There is a lot of advice online from so-called water softening sites and experts but I have found much of the information to be very misleading and quite often just uninformed advice from people that have never been in the water treatment business.

I hope this information and future blog articles can assist you in your search for the proper water treatment system for your home and family.  If you do choose the proper water softener system for your needs and maintain it properly there is a good possibility of it lasting 20 years or more.


I Wish You Good Water and Good Days!

R.J. DeChene
The Water Softener Blog


More information is available regarding topics of this blog in the links below:

How Softeners Work - YouTube

Water Softener Facts

Wikipedia - Water Softening

Whirpool - Water Softener Basics

Water Softener Salt

PSU Extension - Water Treatment

© Copyright 2016 The Water Softener Blog. All rights reserved




"Water Filters" part 1 - When, What, Why and How to use a filter.

"Water Filters". Water filters cover the gambit from simple faucet filters, refrigerator filters, in-line filters to filter housings with a replaceable filter cartridge to all types of whole house backwashing / regenerating filtration systems that remove, iron, odors, manganese, radium, lead, turbidity and a plethora of other water problems.  This subject covers such a wide range of water problems it could take many blog articles to cover just the basics for water filtration.  One thing I know for sure is what the typical consumer considers to be a water filter and what a water treatment professional would consider a water filter is totally different.

In this first "Water Filters" article we will look at filter housings and filter options.  Water filters installed for the whole house are referred to as Point of Entry (POE).  Water filters used for specific locations, like under a kitchen sink, are referred to as Point of Use (POU).  The most basic filtration is a filter housing with a replaceable filter cartridge.
Water filter housings and filter cartridges
Filter housings come in almost any size for many different uses.  A standard filter housing for residential whole-house use would be 3" x 10" (lower left in picture) up to 4" x 20" (upper right in picture).

The problem is these replaceable filter cartridges are sold everywhere for rust, sediment, odor and chlorine removal for water and although they will definitely help reduce those things, depending on what filter is used, they are not always the best options to do so and can plug up quickly causing replacement of filters frequently. This can be a very expensive proposition as filter cartridges vary in price from a couple dollars to over a hundred dollars.  They can also significantly reduce water pressure and water volume.  These style filters were very popular when well casings were steel.  With steel well casings, scale, sediment, and rust commonly come off the inside of the well casing causing service issues with water treatment equipment. Cartridge filters, before a water softener, were a necessity to remove any sediment coming from this type well.  Today most drilled wells use PVC casings so the scale and sediment issues have pretty much been resolved to the point where filter housings generally are no longer necessary.  A good example where such filters are still an economical choice with good results would be with the water issues in Flint, MI.  Using a simple filter housing, with a block carbon filter, under the sink and tied into the kitchen cold water will greatly reduce the lead content, chlorine, and the turbidity issues for drinking water.  Although the filters would need to be replaced frequently, depending on how much water is used and the incoming water quality.

Replaceable filter cartridges are rated by "micron size" and/or specific contaminant removal.  Filter cartridges come in micron ratings from .35 mic, .5 mic. 1 mic absolute on up to 50 microns.

Cord wound, Pleated and Polyspun Filter cartridges
Examples:
1.  A 10-50 micron sediment filter may be used before a water softener.
2.  An activated carbon filter may be used for chlorine reduction.
3.  A dual gradient filter such as a DGD 2501 removes larger particles on the outside (25 microns) and
increasingly smaller particles as it passes toward the center of the filter to (1 micron) and is generally used as pre-filtration for laboratory use, machinery and reverse osmosis systems.

The specific filter you may need depends on the particular water problem that needs addressing.  If it's for sediment removal, before a water softener, I would recommend a 20-50 micron sediment filter preferably in a 4"x 10" or 20" BB housing. Cord wound, Poly spun or Pleated filter cartridges are recommended for sediment removal.

There are many different types of carbon and carbon filters for different water problems. As discussed earlier block carbon filters can be used to reduce lead content in drinking water.  Another concern with municipal water supplies are "Chloramines" which is a combination of chlorine and ammonia additives that are added to municipal water supplies for disinfection.  There are specifically formulated carbons to remove chloramine in your drinking water.  Before using any filter for specific drinking water issues check the NSF guidelines for filter certification based on particular contaminant removal.
Block carbon filters 



Filter Changing Tips:
 1.  Always change filter cartridges at regular intervals.  For whole house filters, you should change them every three months or sooner depending on water quality and the amount of water used.
 2.  If you find you have difficulty removing the filter housing initially. Make sure the incoming water is off.  Open a nearby faucet to relieve the water pressure, hold the pressure relief valve down, close the outlet valve when the housing is loose and remove the filter housing.
3.  Change the filter housing o-ring annually and only use silicone lubricant (never use vaseline).
4.  Clean and wipe off the filter housing threads, on the housing and inside the head, at every filter change, and never lubricate the threads.
5.  Clean and sanitize filter housings whenever changing filters.  Simply wipe out the filter housing, add a small amount of household bleach (tablespoon), rinse out the housing, and install a new filter cartridge.
6.  When tightening the filter housing "never use a filter wrench".  Hand tighten the housing only to seat the o-ring.  Using the wrench will flatten the O-ring causing it to leak and make even harder to get the housing off next time.
7.  When replacing the filter leave the water valve on the outlet side of the filter off.  Turn the water on slowly to the filter housing while holding down the pressure relief valve to release the air from the filter housing until all air is released then open the incoming water valve all the way. If there is no pressure relief button open a laundry tub faucet while turning the water back on to the filter to bleed the air off.
4" x 10" Big Blue Housing with a red pressure-relief button.



There is also another class of whole house sediment filters commonly known as a Rusco or Blow Down filter.  These filters have a screen inside to filter sediment, sand, and debris from wells.  These type of filters can be cleaned by opening a valve at the bottom and "blowing down" the filter periodically. Every 2- 3 months normally. These filters are a frequent choice for well drillers when sand is a problem coming from a well.
Rusco blow down filter


*Warning: Never use a cartridge filter for drinking water on non-potable water supply.

Different filter housings and filter cartridges
A small sample of filter housings and cartridge filters available.
When installing a filter housing, for any purpose, it should always be mounted securely to a wall for ease of changing filters and to protect the plumbing along with shutoff valves before and after to isolate the housing when changing filters.  Some filter housings come with a built-in shutoff on top and a pressure relief valve to aid in filter changing.

Filter housing installed before a water softener
A properly installed prefilter housing before a water softener

In our next blog regarding "Water Filters", we will be discussing whole house filtration using backwashing filters and automatic regenerating filter systems to remove everything from sediment to iron, odor, arsenic, radium and more.


Good Days and Good Water!


R.J. DeChene,
The Water Softener Blog 2017


Below are links related to topics discussed in this blog article;







WQA - Perceptible Water Quality Issues


© Copyright The Water Softener Blog 2017. All rights reserved







Monday, June 27, 2016

Is rusty water causing the wife to become a redhead? Here is how to fix that.

Is the wife normally blonde but suddenly finding herself becoming a Redhead?  You could try telling her "red hair" is in vogue these days and she looks great as a redhead but that's probably not the best approach to solving the problem or keeping her happy!  I have a better idea.  Tell her you can fix the water and she will always be that naturally beautiful blonde you married!  You can make that happen.  She can have beautiful blonde hair again and maybe even take off a few years in the process. Great water makes everything better and her happier!

The culprits causing the problems?
Iron, Manganese, and hydrogen sulfide are the most obvious problems with well water, causing staining on everything and everyone Hydrogen sulfide also has that nasty, rotten egg smell.  All three can cause problems, even at very low levels.  The good news is you don't have to live with water like this because all these water problems can be fixed and you can be the HERO.

Fixing water like this does require some experience though.  Far too often I run into homeowners that have in-line filters before and after water softeners trying to remove iron and odor from the water. This can work to a certain extent, in the short term, but there are much better solutions to fix these water problems that will actually give you the water you are looking for and cost less in the long run.

A proper water analysis is the key to finding the right water treatment solution to fix any water problem.  Basic water testing should always include Hardness, Iron, PH, Nitrates, and TDS on well water.  Manganese and Hydrogen sulfide should also be tested for when suspected.  When testing for iron it is important to determine what type of iron is present to determine the proper water treatment method.  At times it may be necessary to have a more comprehensive water analysis done by a certified water testing lab if concerns about the water arise that can not be tested for with a basic, in-home, water test kit such as Bacteria, Arsenic, VOC's, Etc.  A true water treatment professional should always insist on using a certified lab to be sure the correct water treatment system is recommended when any "red flags" pop up with in-home water testing.  Quite frankly they would be stupid not to.  Just to make sure they recommend the right solution.


Types of problem water:
1. Ferrous - Referred to as "Clear Water" iron.  The iron that is in solution/dissolved still. The easiest way to check for this is simply to draw a glass of water and look to see if the water is clear.  Generally, this means all or the majority of iron is ferrous iron.

2. Ferric - Referred to as "Red Water" Iron.  This type of iron has been oxidized and shows up as rusty water. When that glass of clear water sits out all night and is all rusty in the morning the air has oxidized the iron and it falls out of the water. This is the process of ferrous iron turning into ferric iron. Heating the water will cause the same thing to occur.  Ferric iron can also form "Colloidal" particulates creating very fine particles of oxidized iron that can pass through everything and stain everything.

3. Manganese - Manganese shows up as blackish, grey, or brown staining on fixtures, hair, fingernails, and clothing.  It can leave a bad taste in water and when oxidized will give off odors similar to hydrogen sulfide.

4. Iron Bacteria - Nuisance bacteria present in the well water combine with iron to form "Iron Bacteria".  The most noticeable evidence of this will be in the toilet tank.  Iron bacteria form stringy filaments which will be present in the toilet tank on the float, fill valve, and sides of the tank.  Particularly at the water level.  Iron bacteria can also cause many different odors in the water such as fishy, earthy, musty, and oily smells at times.

5. Organic Iron - Referred to as Tannins.  Tannins are caused when low-PH water and decaying vegetation combine with iron causing tea-colored water.  This is usually evident in the toilet bowl with discolored weak tea-looking water.

6. Hydrogen Sulfide - Hydrogen Sulfide imparts a rotten egg smell to the water as it aerates out of the water. Small amounts of H2S can be removed by air induction systems and carbon tanks (short-term).  High amounts of H2S (3+ppm) can be very corrosive and require chlorination and filtration.

7. Low PH Water - Water low in PH (6.5 or below) is considered acidic and needs to have the PH elevated by introducing calcite to the water, before any treatment system, which will in turn elevate the PH to neutral or slightly alkaline for filtration.

Tannin's in Well Water

Iron Stained Shower Grout
Rust (Ferric Iron) In Toilet Tank

The PH of water plays an important role in how we treat iron removal also.  A water softener can
remove ferrous (clear water iron) iron if the PH is from 6.5 to 7.0 as long as the iron levels are relatively low at .1ppm to 1ppm.  Higher amounts of iron can be removed by softening but the water-softening resin eventually becomes fouled by iron so this is not the most practical, or long-term, solution for consistent iron removal.  When the PH is above 7.0 it is necessary to treat the water, before a water softener, with a filtration system to remove iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide for the best quality water.  This is why a proper water analysis is so critical in determining the correct water treatment methods and options to fix your water and keep the wife, with blonde hair, happy.

Before we get any more in-depth into this let's make something perfectly clear.  Filter housings before a water softener, with a cartridge filter that gets replaced periodically, are NOT
iron filters!  Filter cartridges are sold as sediment, iron, rust, and odor filters but they are designed for "sediment removal" only.  Filter cartridges may reduce some iron but as the iron passes through the cartridge it oxidizes (Ferric Iron) and passes right through the water softener. Carbon filters may remove odor for a very short period and when the filter fails the hydrogen sulfide fouls out the resin causing an even bigger problem and premature failure of the water softener.  Filter housings can harbor bacteria also, potentially fouling the water softener.  Bacteria can be introduced into the water from your hands when changing filters.  It is imperative to sanitize the filter housing when changing filters.  If it is determined sediment and or scale is coming from the well this method is a definite consideration before a water softener.  Otherwise "DON'T DO IT"!

Filtration systems generally have 3-4 stages for regeneration. I prefer to have filter systems that can run by gallons and have a day override for regeneration purposes.
1. Backwash Cycle - Reverses the flow of water in the tank to lift the media and rinse off particulates.
2. Draw Cycle - Air or chemical draw to aid in the oxidation process
3. Slow Rinse - Rinses off excess oxidants and starts to compact media.
4. Final Rinse - Fast rinse to compact media bed and prepare for service.

Filtration Media:  There are so many different types of filter media and multiple filter media options for the same application it is just staggering and confusing.  Some of the filter media in use today are Birm, Greensand, Filter Ag, Pyrolox, MTM, Zeolite, Coconut Shell Carbon, Centaur Carbon, and others depending on the application.  The most prevalent filter media for iron removal is still Birm but my preference would be Zeolite media.

This is an extremely small sample of base media, filter media, and resins.

The Solutions:  If you have what we refer to as "Problem Water", Iron bacteria, Tannin's, and Low PH,  I would leave it up to a water treatment professional to help you solve your specific water problems as they are more familiar with the water chemistry in their area.  This can get rather complicated at times when faced with challenging water problems so let's just keep this simple.  Here is a basic water analysis you might find with well water.  We will recommend filter system options that work best.

For this application, we would suggest a 10x54 filter tank that runs by gallons or a 3-day override option.  Single tank systems where the air is drawn directly into the filtration tank are the best solution.

Example:
1. 2.5ppm Ferrous Iron, .5ppm Manganese, PH 7.4, 20gpg Hardness:
10x54 Air Induction filter system with 1.25 cubic ft of BIRM or ZEOLITE filter media.
System settings - 500 gallons and 3-day override.  Backwash - 15min / 40min air draw / 6min rinse.
Water Softener: 9x48 / 32k capacity that would regenerate about every 7 days.  *See blog article on "How Water Softeners Work".

In my experience, this is really the best option to treat water like this. This option offers low maintenance, quality water, and longer run life on the media.  You can expect to get 10+ years with this system before having to re-bed/replace the media.

I hope this helps you keep that blonde happy and give your family many long years of great water.



Good Days and Good Water!

R.J. DeChene,
The Water Softener Blog


More information regarding topics of this blog are in the links below:

Six Scientific Differences (and Facts) Between Blondes and Brunettes

Treatment systems for household water supplies: Iron and manganese removal

PH - Water properties

Water Quality Association

Groundwater-Quality

Iron Bacteria What You Need to Know


© Copyright 2016 The Water Softener Blog. All rights reserved








Wednesday, May 25, 2016

How Do I Fix My Hard Water Problems?

That is a very good question!  The simple answer is install a water softener.  The real answer is more
complicated but it doesn't have to be complicated as long as you do some homework to make sure you purchase the right water softener system to solve your hard water problems.


Fix my hard water

There are a lot of options out there now for so called "Salt Free Water Softeners".  Magnetic gadgets (to change the polarity of the water),  medias to bond the calcium and magnesium together (to make a larger molecular particle) that, theoretically, won't fall out of solution as easily, etc, etc.   At this point all of that is just "Hocus Pocus" and a money grab.  Here is a good example of how they get your money, then back down.  I get a call from a young couple that are having well water issues. They ask if I could come out to test their water and see what is going on with it.  They spent $3000 a couple months back on this system they ordered on-line that goes onto the plumbing after the well tank.  It has several lights on it and wire that wraps around the copper pipe to condition the water.  But their water is still bad. The dishes are getting ruined and the clothes are getting ruined from rust stains. So we test the water with the magnetic gadget in place and sure enough hard, rusty water.  The husband wants to be reassured the magnetic gadget isn't doing anything so I have him remove it, run the water from the well until the pump turns on and off several times to assure them we have a true well water sample and the plumbing is flushed.  Same water as before, 20 grains of hardness and 1 ppm of iron.

Water softeners clean hard water residue
Soft Water On The Left / Hard Water On The Right
At this point I have to prove my point so I run their water through my mini water softener and show them how a water softener works and how it actually softens and conditions the water to remove hardness and iron. Comparing all three samples, well water, water through the magnetic gadget and soft water.  They are convinced now that a water softener is the only way to fix their water problems and decide on a single tank digital metered water softener.  The problem is they just spent $3000 on that gadget?  I tell them lets call the company, express your dissatisfaction with the product and ask for your money back in full.  Five minutes on the phone, sure we understand, it didn't work for you, we are sorry that is the case, we will refund your money in full and apply it to your credit card.  The wife says she will be glad to ship the system back if they cover the shipping cost.  That's OK you don't need to send it back, just keep it.  WOW that was easy!  I waited to tell them this was the third time I have had this happen!  Full refund, no questions asked!  That tells you how big of a scam it is and how much money they are really making off of it!  Now they have a water softener and are very happy customers. For a LOT less than $3000!  They referred me to their friends that bought the same magnetic gadget. They are happy soft water customers now also!  Obviously the point is you can't fix your water with hocus pocus magic gadgets.  The only way to fix your hard water problems is with a salt or potassium based water softener system.
Fleck 9100 Twin Tank Water Softener
Fleck 9100 Twin Tank Water Softener
When we are in a home testing water we always treat it as a consultation rather then selling you something.  The water analysis and your families water usage really tells us how to treat the water and recommend the proper water treatment system that will be efficient for your home.  It's not one size fits all.  I have NEVER seen two families that use the same amount of water.  Even on the same water supply, like a community well, the size of the water softener recommended will vary depending on the water usage.  Always have your water tested before deciding on a water softener system.  A Certified Water Testing Lab is a good source for a complete water analysis.

In Home Water Testing
A complete water analysis is the key to water treatment solutions
Examples:
Water chemistry:  20gpg hardness, .5ppm of ferrous iron.

1. The Smith's have 4 people and use 300 gallons of water a day on a pretty regular basis.  This family would use a Single Tank metered 45k grain capacity softener that would regenerate every 5 days.

2. The Wilson's, across the street, have 4 people and they use 700 gallons daily during the week and have used over 2000 gallons of water on a Saturday!  This family would need a Twin Tank 60k (per tank) water softener to assure they always have soft water even during those days they use 2000 plus gallons of water.

Water softener sizing chart


So you see every home and situation is different.  The best way to assure you have a water softener system that will give you trouble free service for many years is do your homework, get a proper water analysis done to determine what system is best for your family.  If this seems to be too big a task to take on yourself then research your local water treatment companies on-line for customer testimonials, the Better Business Bureau and you can find Certified Water Treatment Professionals in your area by going to the Water Quality Association at WQA.org.  They have a database of qualified professionals in your area to help you with your hard water solutions. If you would like to install your own system I would suggest purchasing a system from a local plumbing supply, not the box stores.  A plumbing supply company will help you with how to install the water softener and have support for you if needed.  There are also several reputable on-line suppliers with great support and competitive pricing that can help you choose the proper water treatment system for your home and family.


Good Water and Good Days!


R.J. DeChene,
The Water Softener Blog 2016

Below are links relating to topics discussed in this blog:

Angies List - Do salt-free water softeners work

AWGT - Solutions to hard water problems
 
Drinking Water Test Kits - KAR Laboratories, Inc.

How Do Water Softener Systems Work?

Popular Mechanics - How Water Softeners Work

Water Quality Association

On-Line Supplier- Ohio Pure Water

© Copyright 2016 The Water Softener Blog. All rights reserved